From Caponata to Ratatouille

One day recently I nearly lapsed into a catatonic state watching the Food Network’s “Pioneer Woman” whip up a hearty batch of steak n’ eggs for all the buckaroos on the ranch.  Before passing out I had a straight off the wall idea flash before me.  I imagined that I would become the world’s leading expert on the connections between French and Italian cuisine.

All I needed was a place to start.  I thought and thought.  I figured I would begin with the complex and move on to the simple. For the first installment I decided a most convenient example of the introduction of Italian influence into French cooking might be the famous Bouillabaise and accordingly a rendering of the similarities between that dish and the Italian Zuppa di Pesce appears elsewhere on these pages if you can find it.

Continue reading “From Caponata to Ratatouille”

Chef’s Shrimp “Caprese”

Shrimp "Caprese"Posting this particular recipe not only highlights one of the tastiest entrees ever to emerge strictly by accident from my kitchen,  but also provides pretext for calling attention to one of the most widely-spoken mispronunciations in all recorded history.

As soon as this post spreads world-wide people will no longer mispronounce the name of one of Italy’s most charming, romantic and utterly beautiful getaways within its territory.  Italians call it the “Isola di Capri” and the accent for both words is on the first syllable.  The Island of Capri.   It is not “caPREE.”

All right so much for the obnoxious language lesson.

It so happens that many dishes are named after the famous island situated a few miles out into the Bay of Naples and hence sport the adjective “caprese” in the name.  “Insalata Caprese” is a probably one of the more well-known examples.  Somehow anything concocted with fresh tomato and basil among other ingredients has earned the right to be designated a “caprese.”  Historically no one really knows how this came about.

In any case I have adopted the “caprese” modifier for this particular shrimp dish,  which includes the obligatory fresh tomato and basil.

But, to be perfectly honest the inspiration came from a close and dear friend from the Maryland Eastern Shore who one night executed,  dare I say,  the “original” Shrimp Caprese,  not exactly the same as the one below but close.

In any case,  as a tribute to the Island of Capri try this:

Chef’s Shrimp “Caprese”

 For 4 persons:

  • 1/2 cup finely diced celery
  • 2 tbsp. chopped scallion
  • 1 small onion finely diced
  • 2 medium garlic cloves minced
  • 1/2 cup diced fresh ripe tomato
  • Olive oil as needed
  • White wine for deglazing (approx. 1 cup)
  • 1 cup very thinly sliced or finely chopped small red and yellow peppers pre-softened in a saute pan
  • 1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
  • 1/2 cup or so chicken broth
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
  • 1 lb. large (21-25 per pound) uncooked shrimp shells removed
  • Salt & pepper to taste

Have oven ready at 350 degrees.

Gratuitous advice: One, this dish cooks up best when made in a large cast iron skillet.  Two, the most annoying task is peeling fresh shrimp,  but substituting pre-cooked supermarket shrimp simply does not work!

Saute the celery, onion,  scallion and garlic in olive oil until well softened.  In a separate pan heat the thinly sliced peppers in olive oil until softened. When all is ready merge the peppers with the other ingredients and heat under medium heat and then add the white wine.  Heat until all the alcohol is evaporated. Sprinkle a teaspoon of Old Bay.  Add the fresh tomatoes, basil and chicken broth and toss. Add salt & pepper to taste.

Finally add the peeled shrimp, toss well, and bake everything in the oven for 25 minutes or until the shrimp has turned pink.

Optional: to expand the calorie count serve over linguine.  That’s what I do.

Spinach On the Side

Here is a  universal side dish if ever there was one.   Plus it kicks spinach up more than one Legassian notch for sure.  Lay it down alongside any preparation based on beef, pork,  fish or fowl.  Or better yet make it up “family style” in the event you are among the rare parents whose kids love spinach.

The trick is to avoid a watery blob on the plate, so I set the prepared spinach on a paper towel for a few minutes before serving.  Also, only a hard cheese will work with this recipe.  Soft cheeses like mozzarella or muenster will render a gooey mess.  Which reminds me that this recipe, with a few additions like mozzarella and peperone  is sometimes found in spinach “calzones,” at least in Rhode Island whence I came.

Ingredients

    • Steamed fresh spinach, one cup or more after steaming (baby spinach leaves are best)
    • 1/4 cup or more chopped Kalamata olives (pitted of course)
    • 1/2 cup sauteed sliced onion, white or red
    • grated sharp provolone or Romano cheese to taste
    • salt&pepper
    • hot red pepper flakes to taste
    • olive oil for saute

Preparation

      Saute onion slices in 2 tbsp. olive oil until soft and set aside. Steam spinach until softened,  remove and squeeze out excess liquid. Chop finely.  Place in saute pan with 2 tablespoons olive oil and bring up to medium heat.  Add chopped olive and onion,  cheese,  salt and pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook for 6 – 8 minutes mixing all ingredients occasionally.

 

Spinach and olives